Cosmetic Raw Material Identification Testing Through Transparent and Opaque Containers

Significance of the Topic

Identification of raw materials is a critical control point in cosmetics manufacturing to ensure product safety, quality, and regulatory compliance. Traditional testing often involves opening containers, sampling, extensive handling, and laboratory analysis, leading to increased costs, time delays, and risk of contamination. Recent advancements in Raman spectroscopy, particularly spatially offset Raman spectroscopy (SORS), enable noninvasive chemical identification through opaque and transparent packaging, promising streamlined workflows and enhanced efficiency in quality control.

Objectives and Study Overview

This study evaluates the performance of the Agilent Vaya handheld Raman spectrometer for at-the-point-of-need identification of cosmetic raw materials directly through containers. The objectives include demonstrating Vaya’s capability to: identify a wide range of cosmetic ingredients (emollients, humectants, preservatives, surfactants, essential oils, vitamins); perform analyses through various container materials (glass, HDPE, PP, paper sacks, flexible intermediate bulk bags, polycarbonate); and assess the impact on the receipt and quarantine process under Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) requirements.

Methodology and Instrumentation

The Agilent Vaya system employs spatially offset Raman spectroscopy (SORS) to collect subsurface chemical signals while suppressing container contributions. A spatial offset between laser excitation and detection zones allows acquisition of Raman photons from beneath container surfaces. Built-in algorithms automatically subtract container spectra, yielding a clean raw material fingerprint. Operators select the container type in the wizard-based software, and the instrument configures acquisition times (10-15 seconds for transparent, 35-40 seconds for opaque) and processing parameters. The Vaya handheld unit is compliant with 21 CFR Part 11, EU Annex 11, and relevant pharmacopeial chapters (USP <858>, EP 2.2.48, etc.).

Main Results and Discussion

Testing covered six classes of cosmetic ingredients:

• Emollients and occlusives (e.g., castor, olive, almond oils) through glass containers;
• Humectants (e.g., glycerol, urea, propylene glycol) in HDPE and PP packaging;
• Preservatives (e.g., benzyl alcohol, citric acid) in HDPE;
• Surfactants (e.g., SDS, polysorbates) in amber glass and HDPE;
• Essential oils (e.g., tea tree, lavender) in polycarbonate bottles;
• Vitamins (e.g., vitamin C, B3, A palmitate) in glass vials.

In all cases, Vaya correctly extracted raw material spectra, removing container signals including polyethylene, TiO2, and pigments. Challenge matrices for similar oils demonstrated 100% discrimination without false positives. Spectra matched reference libraries with high signal-to-noise ratios, even for low-concentration vitamins and highly fluorescent containers.

Practical Benefits of the Method

The Vaya Raman workflow reduces or eliminates multiple quarantine and sampling steps:

• No need to open, sample, or reseal primary and secondary containers;
• Minimal consumables and personal protective equipment required;
• Reduction of sample handling time by ~50% and associated costs by ~50%;
• Immediate PASS/FAIL results with simple operator interface, suitable for non-spectroscopists;
• Enhanced safety by limiting exposure to powders and liquids.

These efficiencies accelerate raw material release, maintain GMP compliance, and support in-house testing even where suppliers provide certificates of analysis.

Future Trends and Potential Applications

Advancements in handheld SORS instruments like Vaya support broader adoption of at-the-point-of-need testing across pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Future developments may include:

• Integration with digital quality management systems for real-time data logging;
• Expanded spectral libraries covering emerging raw materials and botanical extracts;
• Automated multi-container screening for high-throughput warehouses;
• Advanced chemometric algorithms for mixture quantification through packaging.

Such innovations will help manufacturers meet tightening regulations, accommodate 100% raw material identification requirements, and further reduce release timelines.

Conclusion

The Agilent Vaya handheld Raman spectrometer leveraging SORS provides a rapid, noninvasive solution for raw material identification in cosmetics production. Direct through-container analysis delivers reliable PASS/FAIL results in under 40 seconds, streamlines GMP workflows, reduces handling risks, and drives cost and time savings. Vaya’s ease of use and regulatory compliance make it an ideal tool for modern QC laboratories and warehouses.

Reference

• Prulliere F., Welsby C. Cosmetic Raw Material Identification Testing Through Transparent and Opaque Containers. Agilent Technologies Application Note; July 2024.